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    Certain clichés, some more tenacious than others, define generations of Indian restaurants in the United States. It’s a font, the type stylized with curly, pointy-ended serifs. It’s a basket of cold, black-edged papad dressed up as bread service. Usually, though, it’s a menu of naan and curry, pleasing in its soft, warm vagueness. And so when the chef Preeti Mistry opened her first restaurant, she wanted to avoid as many of those clichés as possible. “I wanted to do something that was the opposite of all of that,” Mistry said. At first, she railed against naan and curry. It pained her that India’s vast cuisine was still, so often, reduced to that pairing. “I wanted to bring something that was more out there, that didn’t really exist yet,” she said.

    What Mistry brought was Juhu Beach Club, a small restaurant in Oakland that opened in 2013, where she cooked with ingredients from the farmers’ market. In “The Juhu Beach Club Cookbook,” which Mistry wrote with Sarah Henry last fall, she tells the story of how she grew up tasting Indian street food on the beaches of Mumbai, longing to eat more than her mother’s home-cooked meals and sneaking cans of Coke at friends’ houses. By the time she was working in the basement kitchen of Claridge’s in London, Mistry knew that cooking would be her path.

    She started with a pop-up inside a liquor store in San Francisco, where she moved in the ’90s, crushing cloves and cardamom in a coffee grinder and bringing her spice pastes from home. Eventually, she opened Juhu Beach Club, and though it closed in January, it was authentic to Mistry’s complex point of view as a first-generation Indian-American — one born in London to Asian parents from East Africa, raised in the American Midwest, cheffing in Northern California.

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  • “A lot of old-school Indian restaurants won’t use black salt because they think it’s going to be too weird,” said Mistry, referring to the dark rock salt crystals, pungent with sulfur, often used to season and bring depth to chaats and other food. “I love it, it’s awesome. It has this flavor and funk that’s really distinctive. And I’m not pandering to anyone.” Mistry put black salt in tangy, crunchy salads when she felt it belonged in them and cooked the way she liked. She bought locally grown fenugreek leaves for methi chicken, and built chaat with fresh green chickpeas. She fried the thin, crisp, delicate chickpea noodles to make sev in house, and served them with persimmons when they were in season. “I thought about the building blocks of sev puri,” Mistry said. “I thought about the elements like any chef would think about a classic dish.”

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    There were waffles on the weekends. Mistry cooked them from the same kind of fermented batter typically used to make dosa. And each summer, there was the conundrum of the tomato salad. Every California restaurant has a summery tomato salad of some kind, Mistry explained. A riff of some sort on a caprese — tomatoes, mozzarella, herbs. Mistry wanted one, too, and she experimented with many versions. There was the one with soft, creamy paneer made from fresh milk, standing in for mozzarella. But Mistry said it had too many bells and whistles. Then a few years ago, she came up with a tomato salad that drew from the flavors of a kachumber — a raw, roughly chopped salad sometimes seasoned with only cumin seeds and lemon juice. It’s this one, which I made in my Brooklyn kitchen again and again throughout August and September, that showed me very clearly what I’d miss after Juhu Beach Club closed.

    To put it together, Mistry made something resembling a green-goddess dressing — herbs blitzed with a little yogurt, vinegar and oil. Then she seasoned plain fatty yogurt with toasted, crushed cumin seeds and salt and smeared it all over a plate. She piled a mix of dressed heirloom tomatoes on top, the big ones cut into wedges, the little ones halved. And that was it. “I wanted to make it simple,” Mistry said. “I wanted to make, in the moment, just whatever felt right.”

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    It wasn’t a kachumber, not by any definition. Neither could it pass as a caprese, not that it even wanted to. It wasn’t a mash-up of the two, either. It was better — it was something that didn’t really exist yet — delicious, habit-forming and a wonderful thing to do with the last sweet, fat tomatoes of the year.

    출장마사지정읍출장업계위↦목포출장오쓰피걸❤【남원출장업소【카톡- Po 3 4】《Poo3 4.c0M》콜걸흥출장안마Y☣↺2019-03-25-20-13남원↪AIJ]콜걸샵흥출장안마역출장안마◦출장소이스홍성웃출장최고시➸남원】구미외국인출장만남♪수원출장서비스╰순천출장만족보장↤정읍콜걸강추인천콜걸만남┍속초출장샵안내☪【남원출장샵후기{카톡- Po 3 4}《Poo3 4.c0M》출장샵예약포항출장업계위Y♦→2019-03-25-20-13남원⇦AIJ╉출장샵예약포항출장샵콜걸콜걸후기➽출장샵예약포항♕출장샵⇅남원】포항출장서비스보장➹충청북도안마❣구리출장오쓰피걸╍아산출장안마추천남원출장샵예약오산출장안마야한곳☈이천출장샵안내√【남원오피《카톡- Po 3 4》〖Poo3 4.c0M〗출장업소출장최강미녀Y☻✘2019-03-25-20-13남원┩AIJ☠출장코스가격출장업계위콜걸샵↓출장맛사지♩출장안마야한곳◎남원】파주출장소이스홍성☠남원출장샵콜걸➠계룡출장샵예약포항✪성남출장안마추천남양주외국인오피걸남원출장샵예약포항✲하남출장오피.【남원역출장안마【카톡- Po 3 4】《Poo3 4.c0M》출장서비스콜걸강추Y└☂2019-03-25-20-13남원☺AIJ╚출장업소출장샵안내출장샵예약☊콜걸업소♂출장소이스◇남원】천안콜걸추천[수원출장업계위♣전라남도콜걸만남❄인천출장샵콜걸

  • 출장마사지
  • 남원출장안마(카톡- Po 3 4)『Poo3 4.c0M』안마출장소이스홍성Y☃►2019-03-25-20-13남원¤AIJ↕출장안마출장만족보장출장샵예약포항╏콜걸강추╮출장샵안내┹남원
  • 남원출장최고시
  • 남원콜걸추천◈광명출장샵☢【남원콜걸만남〖카톡- Po 3 4〗[Poo3 4.c0M]출장샵안내콜걸만남Y⇁ⓔ2019-03-25-20-13남원⇙AIJ♐콜걸출장안마미시출장안마출장샵후기╒출장샵예약⇊출장맛사지▒남원】대구출장최강미녀➺진해출장만남↛상주출장서비스보장☶제주도출장오쓰피걸

  • 남원출장업소〖카톡- Po 3 4〗『Poo3 4.c0M』출장만남출장외국인Y╅♚2019-03-25-20-13남원►AIJ☴출장안마야한곳출장최고시출장샵예약◇출장샵▨출장안마야한곳❈남원
  • 사천콜걸
  • 충청북도모텔출장™김해안마❈【남원출장오쓰피걸[카톡- Po 3 4]【Poo3 4.c0M】출장가격출장아가씨Y╓➧2019-03-25-20-13남원UAIJ┨콜걸강추출장맛사지출장연애인급➷출장샵안내✄출장샵안내◑남원】청주출장몸매최고☃대구출장샵안내▧안동출장샵예약↹부천모텔출장남원출장샵예약포항남원출장서비스보장(카톡- Po 3 4)《Poo3 4.c0M》역출장안마출장코스가격Y╈❤2019-03-25-20-13남원┗AIJ▫출장시출장샵강추출장만남▲출장업소⇚오피걸♟남원

    A version of this article appears in print on , on Page 30 of the Sunday Magazine with the headline: The Last Great Tomato Salad of the Year
  • 애인대행
  • 남원안마[카톡- Po 3 4]【Poo3 4.c0M】출장오피출장최강미녀Y┸⊿2019-03-25-20-13남원◘AIJ↪출장만족보장모텔출장안마╆흥출장안마◊출장샵안내↩남원

  • 영천콜걸샵☆남원출장몸매최고⊙【남원출장몸매최고{카톡- Po 3 4}『Poo3 4.c0M』출장시출장코스가격Y⇔┬2019-03-25-20-13남원유AIJ☏오피걸출장최강미녀콜걸출장마사지♀출장미인아가씨♮출장오쓰피걸┵남원】정읍출장업소✦충청북도출장안마야한곳╩창원오피£남원출장맛사지
    경주출장여대생↧경상남도출장샵강추♭【남원출장최강미녀『카톡- Po 3 4』{Poo3 4.c0M}출장서비스역출장안마Y⇛⇇2019-03-25-20-13남원▶AIJ㍿미시출장안마출장아가씨콜걸추천▷릉콜걸샵▄출장몸매최고➵남원】공주출장만남☜나주출장색시미녀언니┪안산콜걸만남╬포항출장샵예약
  • 남원콜걸업소
  • 남원오피걸
  • 안산출장샵강추◆강원도출장샵추천“【남원콜걸추천『카톡- Po 3 4』《Poo3 4.c0M》콜걸출장안마출장만남Y☶☛2019-03-25-20-13남원┩AIJ◄출장서비스콜걸샵출장여대생↰릉콜걸샵⇂동출장마사지❤남원】전주출장코스가격↛전주출장샵강추⇞의정부출장연애인급⇦강릉출장안마추천

  • 남원릉콜걸샵
  • 부천콜걸
  • 모텔출장
  • 진해출장안마추천★밀양출장만남☞【남원콜걸후기[카톡- Po 3 4]【Poo3 4.c0M】출장샵콜걸출장색시미녀언니Y❣┮2019-03-25-20-13남원☪AIJ┻출장샵출장소이스출장안마↿출장안마야한곳✣출장만족보장﹄남원】정읍출장만남☟의왕출장샵추천└통영출장소이스홍성↹남양주출장안마야한곳수원출장샵
  • 남원출장몸매최고〖카톡- Po 3 4〗〖Poo3 4.c0M〗출장소이스홍성출장오쓰피걸Y♐⇥2019-03-25-20-13남원◣AIJ✎콜걸추천릉콜걸샵콜걸추천W콜걸추천┶출장외국인►남원
  • 남원출장안마추천시흥출장샵콜걸✂서산콜걸후기⇊【남원콜걸〖카톡- Po 3 4〗《Poo3 4.c0M》콜걸추천출장오쓰피걸Y☜❀2019-03-25-20-13남원◇AIJ☜오피걸출장만남출장샵추천✈출장샵↹출장샵예약포항▫남원】전주모텔출장➹전주출장최고시➺충청남도출장소이스✃상주출장안마남원출장안마야한곳
  • 남원오피
  • 남원출장코스가격《카톡- Po 3 4》〖Poo3 4.c0M〗출장최강미녀출장오쓰피걸Y»▀2019-03-25-20-13남원╨AIJ☍출장맛사지출장가격출장소이스홍성☂출장만남➽출장업계위█남원
  • 일본인출장샵
  • 충청북도출장최강미녀➷보령출장최강미녀⇜【남원출장샵강추【카톡- Po 3 4】(Poo3 4.c0M)흥출장안마출장색시미녀언니Y↟☃2019-03-25-20-13남원㊣AIJ⇟안마출장샵출장샵추천♬모텔출장♔출장외국인✖남원】구미안마♡통영출장샵강추╈제천출장서비스보장♦성남출장소이스
  • 남원출장업소(카톡- Po 3 4)『Poo3 4.c0M』콜걸업소출장만남Y◁큐2019-03-25-20-13남원»AIJ♠출장최강미녀출장샵안내출장오쓰피걸♮출장업소▫안마♨남원
  • 남원출장맛사지{카톡- Po 3 4}《Poo3 4.c0M》출장색시미녀언니출장만족보장Y➳↟2019-03-25-20-13남원┲AIJ↹흥출장안마콜걸샵출장몸매최고☳출장최고시♫출장안마야한곳♤남원
  • 출장업소
  • 남원콜걸
  • 출장업소남원오피[카톡- Po 3 4](Poo3 4.c0M)출장맛사지출장최고시Y╡▧2019-03-25-20-13남원☞AIJ↝출장오쓰피걸출장최고시출장안마추천✉콜걸추천♡외국인출장만남✡남원
  • 남원콜걸추천《카톡- Po 3 4》【Poo3 4.c0M】출장안마야한곳출장최고시Y┡▽2019-03-25-20-13남원♖AIJ❀출장샵출장여대생출장만남囍출장샵강추™출장샵안내♤남원
  • 출장콜걸
  • 남원출장만남[카톡- Po 3 4](Poo3 4.c0M)출장연애인급콜걸Y⇋⇉2019-03-25-20-13남원◕AIJ▥출장여대생흥출장안마출장업계위✖콜걸•출장샵예약▨남원남원출장외국인김해출장아가씨남원출장미인아가씨{카톡- Po 3 4}(Poo3 4.c0M)외국인출장만남출장서비스Y«█2019-03-25-20-13남원☏AIJ⇞동출장마사지출장샵강추출장가격✘출장서비스보장W출장아가씨╍남원
  • 거제외국인출장샵
  • 남원출장서비스보장〖카톡- Po 3 4〗{Poo3 4.c0M}출장색시미녀언니콜걸Y♭➛2019-03-25-20-13남원①AIJ▒출장마사지콜걸만남출장색시미녀언니┺출장샵강추▶역출장안마▌남원
  • 남원출장안마추천
  • 남원[keyword]【Poo3 4.c0M】[카톡- Po 3 4]╖남원콜걸출장안마♘남원출장시◈콜걸출장안마▶남원흥출장안마╗남원출장가격

    하남출장안마야한곳→전주출장미인아가씨█【남원콜걸출장마사지《카톡- Po 3 4》〖Poo3 4.c0M〗출장샵예약포항출장연애인급Y➽»2019-03-25-20-13남원UAIJ❀출장만남출장소이스홍성출장마사지╟출장시☇오피➷남원】사천출장최고시♛보령흥출장안마╳오산오피✓거제출장샵이천모텔출장↾대전출장몸매최고☇【남원출장소이스【카톡- Po 3 4】《Poo3 4.c0M》모텔출장출장샵추천Y✿↶2019-03-25-20-13남원⇋AIJ☪출장색시미녀언니콜걸출장마사지출장최강미녀●출장서비스보장╬ 출장샵예약포항♀ 남원】문경콜걸강추☃제주도오피✈구미출장소이스홍성⇋대전출장서비스남원출장최고시김해출장아가씨
  • 남원콜걸추천(카톡- Po 3 4)〖Poo3 4.c0M〗콜걸업소콜걸샵Y◦☝2019-03-25-20-13남원☇AIJ★출장최고시콜걸후기콜걸출장마사지♭출장서비스◁출장샵☞남원
  • 대전오피걸▤익산출장마사지♐【남원콜걸추천{카톡- Po 3 4}【Poo3 4.c0M】출장최고시출장아가씨Y☚ ♭2019-03-25-20-13남원▨AIJ◀출장서비스보장출장업계위출장여대생✄콜걸후기↔출장서비스♡남원】전주콜걸만남═아산출장최강미녀▪논산출장샵강추╬아산출장소이스
  • 남원출장맛사지
  • 출장마사지
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